Restaurant Failure and Success

"Good food, like a good marriage, is in the mind of the participant.  Even the best critic’s opinion is subjective. The public is never wrong."

Valerie Hart

            The only pastime more enjoyable than eating is talking about it. When you have mistakenly invited people to your table who do not share common interests and the silence is deafening, it is time to open conversation about an experience you had at a restaurant or ask if anyone has tried the newest just reviewed and then sit back and enjoy the group come alive.

            During the years I was editor for the Zagat Restaurant Survey, all that was needed was one sentence in the newspaper: “Would you like to be a restaurant critic? Send a self-addressed stamped envelope to receive a questionnaire”. Ten thousand envelopes were delivered to my address the next week.

            The restaurant business is the best and worst enterprise one can enter into. Independently owned restaurants in Lake County have become akin to the game of Musical Chairs played at a child’s birthday party. New owners and chefs come and go like summer mosquitoes. The new owner generally changes the name, which is a good thing unless the restaurant is a landmark that has an image and following. Problems occur when new owner neglects to change the concept or menu and the cuisine that failed the old eatery doesn’t change. The kiss of death is a sign that reads, “Under new management”. Few people are fooled by this attempt to draw customers.

            Then there are the “landmarks” - restaurants that just keep rolling along, not by reputation alone, but with good food properly prepared and friendly service.

Former Hall of Fame NY Yankees baseball star, Yogi Berra, was known for his quips. One of the most notable was his response when asked about the popular restaurant, Ruggeri’s, in St. Louis: "Nobody goes there anymore. It's too crowded”.  

We automatically suppose that a crowded restaurant has good food and good service. The more crowded it is, the more popular it becomes. When the parking area of a breakfast place is consistently packed with trucks and pick-ups, we know the food is abundant as well as good. A hungry truck driver is not going to eat a frilly, flimsy breakfast. Bring on the grits and hash browns and sausage gravy! It’s included in the price.

 Everyone loves a “grand opening”. We like to “see and be seen” at the “new kid on the block”. Everything seems bound for success. One month later, you drive by the parking lot to see only a handful of cars. You go inside anyway and find that the lovely selection from your last visit is overcooked with a different sauce and flavor, and the house wine has changed from pleasant to unpalatable. You know immediately that the featured chef is gone and the beverage company has cut their credit. Oops! And, then, the Dominos begin to topple. The worse it gets, the worse it gets, until you see the windows darkened and the sign, “For Lease”. One of the worst mistakes of a novice restaurateur is falling into the hands of a savvy PR firm that convinces him to ‘blow the budget’ on first night ‘very important people’ and press. He gains nothing but a very expensive lesson.

 A good review of an older establishment also brings immediate response from the public, as does my TV show, Back of the House. We go with the flow of those in the know.

So, why do restaurants that seem so promising fail?

There are several reasons why independently owned (Mama-Papa) restaurants fail. Let’s begin with number one: Consistency. Recipes must be standardized. The housewife chef who gained applause for the cuisine she served her guests will generally fail when people receive a bill for an entrée listed under the same heading with a different preparation and proportion from the one served to the diner the previous visit.

Location, Location, Location! Restaurants seem to flourish best in clusters within walking distance to the main streets or in shopping centers. There are, of course, many destination places, but the restaurant has to be worthy of the drive.

  Tantamount to failure is the independent owner who cannot cook and must rely on his chef. When the chef, servers, and dishwashers fail to show, the owner must be able to do it all or close his doors. An astute restaurateur never features his chef, unless it happens to be Emeril or Bobby Flay because, when the chef leaves, the restaurant diminishes in stature.

Number three, in equal stature is the wait staff. A surly or non-attentive server ruins any dining experience, no matter how good the food. The only exception was the original Palm Restaurant, a pricey steak house in New York City where the waiters were ruder than the customers. Lofty New Yorkers embraced their nemesis with good humor, making it their favorite restaurant for the show that went along with their over-sized prime steaks.

The restaurant owner must be fully cognizant of food and beverage costs and profit margin to stay ahead of his creditors. The good restaurateur, like any other astute person with a business, understands the basics of stock market trading, “Bears and Bulls make money; Pigs do not”. A restaurant will make money with a food mark-up of around 35 percent.  This might seem initially high to the consumer until one remembers that food is only a part of the expense. Rent and taxes, preparation, servers, dishwashers, water and electric, sanitizing the kitchen and bathrooms, and a score of unforeseen expenses all must be covered with profit in mind. Wine is the one price point known to the consumer. When a recognizable chardonnay or merlot can be purchased for $9.00 a bottle at a retail store and the price in the restaurant is $45.00, there is an instant reaction of distrust for everything else on the menu. A good restaurateur may safely double or triple the cost, but must be aware that his customers are better informed than he might suppose.

Another fact I learned as editor for the Zagat Florida Surveys: For every good experience a diner has in a restaurant, the establishment gains three customers. However, for every bad experience, the restaurant loses ten customers. The experience is not only contingent upon the factors listed above but the mood of the customer himself. A young couple in love will rate any restaurant much higher than a married couple in the throes of a battle.

Brillat-Savarin, the 15^th century French gourmet, wrote, “Success as a restaurateur comes to those who possess sincerity, order, and skill”. Perhaps Endurance and Endless Dedication should be added to a business that is only as good as its last meal.

           

Tune in Comcast channel 22 & BrightHouse 199 to watch host, Valerie Hart, interview chefs in their kitchens "The Back of the House", or watch it live on your computer at www.lakefronttv.com. Follow her food page on Wednesdays in The Daily Commercial.

Kentucky Derby Favorite Foods

Kentucky cuisine centers around old fashioned, mouth watering southern style cooking: Fried chicken with cream gravy over mashed ‘taters with buttermilk biscuits, Catfish and Frog Legs fried in cornmeal batter with hush puppies, Burgoo Stew with meat and veggies, and, of course, the breakfast favorite Biscuits and Cream Gravy thick with breakfast sausage. Although Mint Juleps are the sacred tradition of the Derby, you won’t be ostracized if you order ice tea, as long as it’s Sweet Tea.

BEEFY TACOS AND TORTILLAS 

Yield: to fill 12 shells

Purchase a box of Old El Paso® Crunchy Taco Shells and Soft Tortillas (6 each)

1 pound lean ground beef

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 Fresno chili peppers (or of choice), minced

1 red onion, diced

1 tablespoon ground cumin

6 ounces tomato paste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 ¼ cup (10 ounce can Campbell’s®) beef broth

2 large plum tomatoes, seeded and diced

Shredded iceberg lettuce

Package 8 ounces Mexican chopped 4-cheeses

Optional: Sliced black olives

1.      Put the ground beef in a heavy bottom pot and cook it in its own fat over medium heat until slightly brown, breaking it up as it cooks. Discard any excess fat.

2.      Add the garlic, chili peppers and onion and stir to combine. Stir in the cumin. Stir in the tomato paste and lemon juice.

3.      Stir in the beef broth, ¼ cup at a time, as sauce thickens.

4.      Bring to the bubbly stage, stirring. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook uncovered, stirring often, until sauce is thick. (10 minutes)

5.      Remove from the heat. Stir in the diced tomatoes. Allow sauce to stand 30 minutes or longer. Taste for seasoning. Reheat.

6.      Heat the tacos and tortillas according to package directions. Place a large spoonful of the sauce into each. Top with the shredded lettuce, chopped cheese and olives.

KENTUCKY MINT JULEP (photo)

Yield: 8 juleps

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup water

12 or more tender mint leaves

Cracked or crushed ice

12 ounces Bourbon (or more to taste)

8 silver julep cups or hi-ball glassses

1.      Make simple sugar syrup: Heat the water. Stir in the sugar until it is dissolved. Remove from the heat. Refrigerate until cold or overnight.

2.      Place cups or glasses into the freezer 30 minutes to frost.

3.      Pour the sugar syrup into a glass or silver pitcher.

4.      Add the mint leaves. With a muddler or back of a long spoon, bruise the mint gently, blending it into the syrup by stirring and pressing. Do not crush the leaves, because they will release bitter juice.

5.      Pack the pitcher with cracked or crushed ice. Add the bourbon and swirl gently with a spoon, bringing the mint leaves up to the top.

6.      Pour into individual cups or hi-ball glasses. Insert a straw and garnish with fresh mint.

MEXICAN MARGARITA

Yield: Contents below make 1 drink.  Multiply for more.

1½ ounces tequila

½ ounce triple sec liqueur

3 ounces sour mix (For 4 drinks, combine 1¼ cup sugar with 1¼ cup hot water until sugar is completely dissolved. Add 1¼ cup fresh lime juice and 1¼ cup fresh lemon juice and refrigerate.

Lime wedge to garnish

Salt or sugar to rim the glass

Margarita or martini glasses

1.      Chill the Margarita glasses in the freezer.

2.      Combine the ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Fill with ice cubes and shake well.

3.      Pour salt or sugar or both into a bowl. Turn each glass upside down into the salt to coat the rim. (They should be moist from the freezer. If not, turn upside down into cold water before coating with the salt)

4.      Pour the drink with its ice into the glass. Garnish with lime.

sandwich bread, topped with another slice of bread. Cut into finger sandwiches.

GRILLED POBLANO PEPPERS WITH MANGO (Quesadillas)

6-10 inch flour tortillas

8 ounces cream cheese, softened

1 ripe mango, peeled and diced (peaches work during season)

1 poblano pepper, seeded and minced

4 tablespoons butter, melted

Preheat grill for medium heat.

1.      Spread half of the tortillas with about 2 tablespoons cream cheese each. Sprinkle mango and poblano peppers over cheese, and press another tortilla on top. Brush butter over the outside of each quesadilla, top and bottom.

2.      Grill quesadillas 5 minutes each side, or until golden brown. Remove from grill, and slice into wedges. Serve warm.

Derby Pie™, a trademark dessert of Louisville's Kerns Bakery, is sinfully rich and delicious, filled with chocolate chips and pecans. The pie has long been a tradition enjoyed on Kentucky Derby Day, the first Saturday in May.

KENTUCKY DERBY PIE™

Kentucky Bourbon Chocolate Walnut Pie

Kentucky bourbon chocolate walnut pie is traditionally served at the annual Kentucky Derby Horse race. This pie recipe is similar to the Melrose Inn's famous version which has been served at the race for over 50 years. The name "Derby Pie" is trademarked, and the owners of the name are very aggressive protecting the name "Derby Pie."

 This recipe is so simple!

½ cup flour

1 cup sugar

2 eggs, beaten

½ cup melted butter

2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon

1 cup chopped walnuts

1 ¼ cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

1 ready-made piecrust

Preheat oven to 350°F.
Combine flour and sugar in a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and butter. Mix to combine. Stir in the bourbon, walnuts, chocolate chips, vanilla, and salt. Pour the mixture into the unbaked piecrust. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Cool completely before slicing. 

Tune in Comcast channel 22 & BrightHouse 199 to watch host, Valerie Hart, interview chefs in their kitchens "The Back of the House", or watch it live on your computer at www.lakefronttv.com. Follow her food page on Wednesdays in The Daily Commercial.

Corn and Beef Barbecue for Mothers' Day

            Okay, Mom! Get out of the kitchen! It’s time for that sports fanatic couch potato to get up from the dent he’s made in his chair and wait on you. Let him drink his beer while he’s cooking on the barbecue. You can do the shopping in advance. You may also prep the food. This is where it ends. Let him do the rest with help from the ‘kids’. This includes the married ones who regress to childhood when they return home, expecting Mom to do all the work. Let him bring dinner (and a glass of wine) to you while you wait to be served. And let the ‘kids’ toss the salad and do the dishes. As much as you might think otherwise, they are perfectly capable. If they spill, they spill. If the floor is dirty, leave it! And, if everything winds up in the wrong place, don’t say a word. This is your day. Enjoy!

 Beef Ribs go directly on the grill after they have been marinated. The recipe can be exchanged for Short Ribs. However, for fall-off the bone scrumptious texture associated with short ribs, cover them before marinating with water in a large pot. Add garlic or garlic powder, onions or onion powder, and a good amount of pepper. Bring to a boil. Cover. Reduce heat to medium. Boil gently for 30-40 minutes or until a knife can be easily inserted, telling you they are tender. Remove and cool.  Follow the instructions to marinate and grill. They can be marinated several hours or overnight. Note the absence of salt in the marinades. Salt toughens meat. Sprinkle lightly just before grilling.

            Florida corn is in season. The newest fad is to cook corn in the microwave, with or without husks and silk intact. They will cook in their own natural moisture.

Place on dampened paper towel. Turn ears over and rearrange after 1/2 cooking time.

Cooking Timetable:

1 ear - 1 ½ minutes, 2 ears - 3 to 4 minutes, 3 ears - 5 to 6 minutes, 4 ears - 7 to 8 minutes
6 ears - 8 to 9 minutes.

When ears are hot to the touch, remove and wrap in kitchen towel or foil.

Let stand at least 5 minutes. Remove husks and silk (which is easier than when cold) and serve with melted butter.

The downside of microwaving corn is that it is time-consuming and, when you need to cook more than three ears, the corn might not cook evenly. It works best for corn you freeze for a later date because it will remain firm with its juices and sugar at peak quality.

This Foodie cooks fresh corn in a basket in a large pot with enough water at the bottom to create steam. Do not overcook. Fresh corn is also fabulous grilled. Check below for the recipe to grill our native delicacy.

           

DAD’S BARBECUED BEEF RIBS

Mom can make marinade in advance

Yield: 3 cups

1 cup ketchup

½ cup water

¼ cup molasses

¼ cup Worcestershire sauce

3 tablespoons light brown sugar

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons Dijon (Grey Poupon®) mustard

Optional: ½ teaspoon hot pepper sauce (Tabasco®)

2 cloves crushed fresh garlic or 1 teaspoon granulated or powdered

½ teaspoon black pepper

1.                  Combine ingredients in a blender and purée. Rub into ribs.  Let stand 1 hour at room temperature.

2.                  Remove from marinade and pat dry. Place over coals or gas barbecue – gas medium heat – or gray charcoals - and cook approximately 30 minutes, turning and basting often until meat is done to your liking. Serve with a baked sweet potato.

BAKED SWEET POTATO

For Husbands Who Have Never Done This:

1.                  Wash Potatoes under running water. Remove any strings growing from potatoes. Cut out any dark spots. Perfect!

2.                  Preheat oven to 350˚F. This is done by turning one knob to Bake and the other to 350°F. You can do it!

3.                  Wait approximately 10 minutes for oven to reach its temperature. Place sweet potatoes on a piece of foil so you don’t have to clean the oven later. Bake 1 hour. Insert the sharp point of a knife. If very soft within, they are done.  If there is still some resistance, continue baking another 20 minutes.

4.                  Slice butter and put it on a plate with a knife. Bring butter, salt and pepper to the table. Perfect!

TEXAS STYLE BEEF RIBS

SAUCE:

2 cups commercial marinara sauce

½ cup dry red wine

½ cup commercial jalapeño jelly

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

2 teaspoons chili powder

1.      Combine ingredients. Bring to a boil in a saucepan, stirring until the jelly dissolves. Remove from the heat to cool.

4-5 pounds beef ribs

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

1.      Bring the ribs to room temperature. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sear over direct heat on both sides until browned.

2.      Remove to a deep 10X13 inch baking dish (not aluminum or cast-iron). Set them meat side down.

3.      Pour the sauce over the ribs. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and grill over Indirect Medium heat 1 hour. Remove the foil and continue grilling until the meat pulls away from the bones. (45-60 minutes), turning them occasionally.

4.      Drizzle sauce over to serve.

GRILLED CORN IN HUSKS

6 ears fresh corn in their husks

Butter or herb butter

1.      Heat gas or charcoal grill to 550°F highest heat

2.      Peel back corn husks and remove silk. Brush with melted butter or melted herb butter. Close the husks.

3.      Wrap each ear tightly in aluminum foil. Place on the grill. Cook approximately 30 minutes, turning occasionally, until corn is tender.

HERB BUTTER

½ cup melted butter (1 stick)

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

½ teaspoon garlic salt

GRILLED CORN ON THE COB

6 ears husked corn

1.      Combine the butter, basil, parsley and garlic salt in a bowl. Brush each ear of corn with 1 tablespoon of the seasoned butter. Grill over direct medium heat, turning occasionally, until browned in spots and tender. (10-15 minutes)

SUPER SALAD FOR THE KIDS TO MAKE

Yield: 6 servings

12 ounce bottle good commercial Poppy Seed Salad Dressing

 ¼ cup orange juice

1 full teaspoon Dijon mustard (Grey Poupon®)

2 Romaine lettuces, chopped coarse

1 large Iceberg lettuce, chopped coarse

2 cucumbers, peeled and cut into thin slices

2 ripe tomatoes, cut into cubes or quartered

15 ounce can pitted black olives, sliced in halves

15 ounce can garbanzo beans

4 ounces feta cheese, cubed

1.      Combine the Poppy Seed Salad Dressing with orange juice and Dijon mustard.

2.      Combine all ingredients except the feta cheese in a bowl and toss with the dressing. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Sprinkle with feta cheese.

Tune in Comcast channel 22 & BrightHouse 199 to watch host, Valerie Hart, interview chefs in their kitchens "The Back of the House", or watch it live on your computer at www.lakefronttv.com. Follow her food page on Wednesdays in The Daily Commercial.

Working Mom vs Stay at Home

When Democratic strategist, Hilary Rosen, told the world that Ann Romney had “actually never worked a day in her life” because she was a stay-at-home-mom to five sons, the emotions from both sides of a debate that began in the 1960s surfaced with a roar. Ann and Mitt Romney were married in 1969. Her decision to remain at home, even though she was intelligent and well-educated with a BA from Harvard, was not only what she was supposed to do, but what she opted to do.

            Looking back, it seems as though there was less stress during the 1960s, perhaps because we hadn’t entered the age of technology. There weren’t nearly as many opportunities for women to engage in a full-time career along with being a good wife and mother. Women attorneys and doctors were a rarity. A married woman who found it necessary to work just had a “job” as a teacher, nurse, receptionist, secretary, check-out girl, or, if lucky, an envied food or society writer for the local newspaper, usually achieved by writing her column from her home typewriter. And, if she became pregnant, it was perfectly acceptable for her employer to terminate her services.

A single woman could be a stewardess on an airplane, if she embodied the following requirements outlined in the 1966 New York Times classified ad for stewardesses at Eastern Airlines: “A high school graduate, single (widows and divorcees with no children considered), 20 years of age (girls nineteen and a half may apply for future consideration). 5’2”, but no more than 5’9”; weight 105 to 135 in proportion to height; must have at least 20/40 vision without glasses."  

During the 1970's, Maida Heatter, daughter of the famous radio commentator, Gabriel Heatter, began to give baking courses out of her home in Miami Beach. In 1974, after writing the award winning, “The Book of Great Desserts”, she said, “While all those women were out searching for their careers, I stayed in the kitchen and found mine.”

            Stay-at-home moms of the ‘80s and ‘90s criticized working mom peers for “choosing a career over their children”, while working moms criticized stay-at-home moms for “giving up their ambitions and income for an apron and a vacuum”, classifying them as dull and unintelligible in conversation. By the year, 2000, some 77 percent of women between 25 and 54 were in the workplace, many with executive jobs and professions. When a couple was introduced socially, the question had shifted from, “What does he do”, to “What does she do”? It became a stigma for a woman not to be employed.

            Then, a slow revolution began to evolve. It started in small towns like ours, where women decided to stay at home. Their careers were put on hold for the more significant career of raising children. There also emerged a large group who home-schooled their children, which, if done correctly, was a full-time job in itself.

            Many stay-at-home moms have found opportunities for creating part-time businesses from their homes. Large cities like Manhattan in New York offer part-time careers such as a dog walker for the elite Upper Eastside pampered pooches. This might be a come-down for what was once expected from those with corporate credentials, but the going rate to strut eight darlings attached together is $35.00 per dog. This adds up to $1,900 a week! Small town moms can be just as innovative. There are, of course, opportunities in computer land, but, for those proficient with a sewing machine or who have a talent for making cookies and jams, an at home business is at their fingertips. A word of advice is to refuse anyone who asks for money up front to get you started.

            For all you mothers who have chosen to work at home, and for all who have chosen to work outside the home either from necessity or to continue your careers, you are to be commended for your endeavors. Motherhood is not an easy task. The days are too long and the nights too short. And, just when the children have grown into adulthood and you think it’s finally your time of life, they march back in with grandchildren. These are the dividends that make it all worthwhile.  

             

                   

           Tune in Comcast channel 22 & BrightHouse 199 to watch host, Valerie Hart, interview chefs in their kitchens "The Back of the House", or watch it live on your computer at www.lakefronttv.com. Follow her food page on Wednesdays in The Daily Commercial.

HOT DOGS-AMERICA'S FAVORITE FOOD

HOT DOG! America’s  Favorite Food

          Why do people from other countries consider hamburgers, apple pie, and Coca Cola quintessential American foods, but fail to recognize our uniquely American novelty, the hot dog, in the same category? Most Americans agree that hot dogs should belong on our list of cultural foods. Yet, they are dwarfed by their cousin, the hamburger, and unrecognized internationally as a culinary symbol of the United States. It is true that sausage in a bun is not an American invention. It is, in fact, one of the oldest forms of processed food, having been mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey in 850 CE.  ("As when a man besides a great fire has filled a sausage with fat and blood and turns it this way and that and is very eager to get it quickly roasted.")

          The term, “dog” remains a mystery. No one is sure exactly where it originated. Some speculate that it was in response to an unfounded rumor that sausage manufacturers used dog meat until as late as 1845. Others say the term was coined by a cartoon in 1900 that likened the shape of the sausage to the dachshund. Hot Dogs are also called Frankfurters (named after Frankfurt, Germany), Weiners (misspelling of Wieners - short for Wienerwürst, the sausage of Vienna - ‘Wien’), and Red Hots. Red Hots were the invention of a German peddler, Antonoine Feuchtwanger, who sold sausages in the streets of St. Louis, Missouri, in 1880. He supplied white gloves with each purchase so that his customers would not burn their hands while eating the sausage. The customers walked off with the gloves and his profits. His wife suggested he put the sausages into a split bun, baked by his brother-in-law. He called them “Red Hots”, giving birth to our hot dog.

Then there was Charles Feltman, a German butcher, who supposedly opened the first Coney Island hot dog stand in Brooklyn, New York, in 1867, with a succulent pork sausage tucked into a roll. His dog, however, had no association with the “Coney Island” hot dog that refers to the natural casing around the beef hot dog, topped with an all-meat bean-less chili and diced white onions with two stripes of yellow mustard that was developed in Michigan. And, it is still under dispute whether it originated in Detroit, Jackson, or Flint, Michigan, with each claiming it as their own.

In Cincinnati, the "cheese Coney" is a variation of the Coney Island hot dog topped with the city's unique style of chili, onions, and shredded cheese which nearly hide the wiener, which is smaller in size than the typical Detroit-style Coney dog. Its popularity makes Cincinnati nearly synonymous with cheese Coneys. Outside of Cincinnati, the topping is referred to "Cincinnati style chili," whereas within the city it is simply known as "chili" from the many neighborhood franchises started by Greek immigrants.

Although the hot dog is eaten by all (real) Americans, variations are both regional and ethnic. That’s more than anyone can claim about the hamburger. These meaty treats have grown into a food featured at our country’s most revered events and traditions. Every stadium and amusement park sells hot dogs. You can buy a hot dog at every other street corn in New York City, but to purchase a hamburger, one must go into a restaurant.

Nathans earns the award as being most synonymous with America’s hot dogs. In 1939, Franklin D. Roosevelt and his wife, Eleanor, decided to present something truly American to King George VI of England and Queen Elizabeth (Mother of Queen Elizabeth II). Platters of Nathan's hot dogs were passed at a picnic at their estate in Hyde Park, New York, on June 11, 1939. The picnic menu was featured on the front page of the New York Times, claiming that only in America would visiting royalty be served a hot dog.

At what point the lowly hot dog experienced the metamorphosis from ballpark to ballroom cannot be determined. It might have been destined that something so incredibly receptive to almost any embellishment would eventually know no limits to gourmandizing them. Some say you can differentiate the economic class of hot dog consumers. The Proletariat (lower class) who eat ball park dogs slather on yellow mustard only, whereas the Bourgeoise (middle and upper classes) might begin with a dollop of Grey Poupon® and then add toppings that can range anywhere from bacon, blue cheese with guacamole, pâté de foie gras, or brie with sliced fresh pears.

Hot dog toppings, like those on pizza, are a matter of regional pride. Order a Chicago-style hot dog and you’ll get an all beef frank loaded with mustard, onions, peppers, relish, dill pickles, salt, and fresh tomatoes. Or maybe you prefer Italian hot dogs from New Jersey featuring a topping of peppers, potato, and onions. Then, there’s the truly American Brooklyn hot dog that is unembellished save for a heaping cover of old fashioned sauerkraut. Add your own mustard, but nothing else. Mid-westerners prefer theirs plain with mustard and ketchup. Both sweet and dill relish are acceptable to all, but never a sweet pickle. Atlanta folks smother theirs with coleslaw and sweet Vidalia onions. The all-beef Kosher dog has more ‘zip’ and crunch without any artificial flavoring or color, appealing to a more sophisticated palate, whereas the bland ballpark dog is favored by children.  Everywhere, the hot dog must be accompanied by a dill pickle, preferably Kosher - new, half sour or sour.

There are hundreds of companies that claim to manufacture the best hot dog ranging from skinny dogs to big dinner franks to knockwürst to cocktail size. But, what about Bratwürst?  Is it a hot dog? The folks of German ancestry in Wisconsin consider it the Only hot dog. Made with pork and veal, it is simmered in a Pilsner beer infused with onions and then grilled over charcoal. It is traditionally served with ice cold Wisconsin beer and German Potato Salad. Miller Park Stadium in Milwaukee sells more bratwurst than hot dogs.

Ball Park hot dogs that once were a bargain can cost from $5.00 - $6.00 at Tampa Bay and Los Angeles’ Dodger Stadiums, which is a real hardship for most families. On the other end of the spectrum, the Cincinnati Reds offer food special days with a hot dogs and drinks priced at $1.00 - no limit - when they want to fill their stadium with an opponent that might otherwise not draw a crowd. You can also bring your own water and soda, prohibited at other stadiums. Smart business!

GREEK TOWN HOT DOGS DETROIT

1small sweet onion, thinly sliced

¼ cup crumbled Feta cheese

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon dried oregano leaves

1 package (15 ounces) Oscar Mayer® Selects Chicago Recipe Beef Franks

8 bakery-style hot dog buns, partially split

1.      Combine all ingredients except franks and buns. Refrigerate 1 hour.

2.      Heat grill to medium. Grill franks 7 to 9 minutes, turning until the outsides are seared.

3.      Fill buns with franks and onion mixture.

CONEY ISLAND CHILI DOG SAUCE (from Detroit)

Yield: Approximately 2 cups

Koegal, Dearborn, and Kowalski are Detroit’s local hot dogs. The best dogs for this recipe are long and skinny, made with a combination of pork and beef because they are not too spicy.

We Detroiters accompanied our hot dogs with Vernor’s® Ginger Ale, the oldest surviving soda in the United States, created over 130 years ago by a 19-year old boy, James Vernor.

1 pound ground chuck
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 six ounce can tomato paste
1 cup water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon prepared yellow mustard
1 tablespoon minced onion
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon celery seed
½ teaspoon ground cumin (heaping)
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1.      Brown the ground beef in a skillet, adding onions half way through. Add minced garlic when meat is almost done.

2.      Add the remaining ingredients, stirring well. Simmer over very low heat 15 minutes or longer.

3.      Set hot dogs into buns and cover lavishly with the chili. Some Detroiters spread the dog with extra yellow mustard and raw onions before adding the chili on top.

SWEET AND SOUR COCKTAIL FRANKS

A great hors d’oeuvre

The original recipe was developed by someone in Detroit during the 1950s. I have changed and added to it many times.

12 ounce package Cocktail Franks - Boar’s Head® quality

1 cup red currant jelly

½ cup Welch’s® grape jelly

½ cup French’s® yellow mustard

¼ cup Heinz® chili sauce

1.      Combine ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring. Reduce heat to low. Cover and allow the flavors to meld and incorporate into the franks. Serve in a chafing dish over heat with toothpicks.

HOT DOGS AND BAKED BEANS

Yield:   Approximately 4 servings

The amount of ingredients will change with beans that are seasoned, as well with individual palates. Taste as you go along.

15 ounce can baked beans of choice

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon brown mustard (Gulden’s® Spicy Brown)

2-3 tablespoons barbecue sauce

1 small red onion, chopped

Optional: 3 strips cooked crisp bacon, chopped

1.      Combine ingredients, reserving the bacon. Bring to a boil, stirring. Reduce heat to simmer. Cover. Simmer at least 15 minutes, stirring often.

2.      Stir in bacon to serve over grilled, boiled, broiled or baked hot dogs, knockwurst, or cocktail franks.

GERMAN POTATO SALAD

For Bratwürst

2 pounds new or red potatoes, unpeeled

½ pound thick-cut bacon

1 large purple onion, chopped

⅓ cup white vinegar

⅓ cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon coarse grain brown mustard

1 teaspoon or more Kosher salt

¼ cup minced chives or green scallions

1.      Cover the potatoes with water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-high. Cover and boil gently until a knife can easily be inserted but the potatoes are still very firm. Drain immediately and cool to room temperature.

2.      Slice into rounds approximately ¼ inch in diameter. Transfer to a heat-proof bowl.

3.      In a skillet, cook the bacon crisp. Drain on paper toweling and crumble. Toss with the  sliced potatoes. Pour off and discard all but ⅓ cup of the bacon fat.

4.      Add the onion to the fat. Cook until soft but not colored over low heat.

5.      Stir in the vinegar, sugar, mustard and salt and cook over medium heat until thickened  and bubbly. Toss with the potatoes. Taste for salt and pepper. Keep warm. Sprinkle with chives directly before serving.

Tune in Comcast channel 22 & BrightHouse 199 to watch host, Valerie Hart, interview chefs in their kitchens "The Back of the House", or watch it live on your computer at www.lakefronttv.com. Follow her food page on Wednesdays in The Daily Commercial.

Rosh Hashanah Menu and recipes

Remember the song, Tradition, from the classic musical, Fiddler on the Roof?  The traditions of the Jewish people began over 5,000 years ago and continue with each generation. Rosh Hashanah, that translates literally as the “head” or “first” of the year, will usher in the year 5,773 on September 16^th at sundown when world Jewry will set their tables with their finest cloths and china and dip apple slices into honey and say a prayer asking God for a sweet year with the same wish as their ancestors that their good deeds in the ensuing year should be as plentiful as the seeds of the pomegranate. Honey in Biblical times represented good living and wealth. The Bible refers to Israel as the land of "milk and honey”. 

Chicken fat was once a part not only of every Jewish kitchen but also most European ones. It was used in Northern Europe where oil was scarce and butter expensive. It is still used by Singaporeans and Malaysians to cook delicious Hainanese Chicken Rice.  Animal fat (‘schmaltz’=Yiddish, ‘smalz’=High German). Until the middle of the 20^th century, it was a basic cooking staple and spread for bread. Cholesterol concern has caused it to all but disappear even though it is no more of a culprit than butter or other saturated solid fats. However, every gourmet cook knows that pâtés (Chopped Liver) and Potato Pancakes (latkes) suffer when liquid oil replaces the true fat of the ages. Chicken fat remains a pure product, not processed like Canola or soy oils. Rendering chicken fat might even be classified as a gourmet production (See below), or it can be acquired by saving the fat that forms on top of the soup when refrigerated, or by slowly roasting a seasoned chicken without addition of any liquid in the pan. Refrigerate the juices overnight. The fat will rise to the top.

            A typical Rosh Hashanah dinner might begin with chicken liver pâté, followed by a light salad before an entrée of roast chicken. Carrots sweetened with honey remain a favorite of the night. A delicious alternative to potatoes or rice is Kasha (kasza), the Slavic name for buckwheat groats. When cooked with onions and chicken stock or water, and mixed with bowtie pasta, they lend a beautiful flavor balance to a vegetable enhanced with honey. This was traditional comfort food for Russian Jews, who brought it to America. It is a good source of fiber and naturally gluten-free. (In the absence of gluten-free bowties, substitute gluten-free thin penne.)

           

TO RENDER CHICKEN FAT

Remove the skin and fat from a 4-5 pound chicken.  Cut the fat and skin into rather small pieces and place in a saucepan with a sliced onion and a clove of garlic, if you wish. Add a bit of Kosher salt and black or white pepper. Cover and cook over very low heat approximately 45 minutes, turning the fat occasionally.  As the fat melts, strain it into a bowl or jar, and continue cooking until all the fat has been extracted. If the fat pieces become puffy, pierce them with a sharp knife to fully extract the juices. Freeze in one cup amounts to use for pâtés, matzo balls, and poultry dishes.

CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ

Yield:  6-8 Servings

Make a day in advance for the flavors to settle.

1 pound fresh chicken livers, fat and connective tissue removed

4 tablespoons chicken fat or butter

1 large onion, chopped

Optional: 1 clove garlic, minced

½ pound white mushrooms, sliced

2 tablespoons brandy

1 teaspoon salt or more to taste

½ teaspoon black pepper or more to taste

⅛ teaspoon nutmeg

4 hard boiled extra large eggs

Thinly sliced sweet onion

Chopped parsley to decorate

1.      Wash the livers, removing any fat, veins and connective tissue.

2.      Warm the fat in a large skillet. Add the onion, garlic, mushrooms and brandy. Cook over medium heat, turning the livers often to cook evenly. Cook until livers are done throughout but still soft. Do not overcook or they will become bitter.

3.      Add salt, pepper, nutmeg.

4.      Pour off excess liquid and cool to room temperature.

5.      Combine with the hard boiled eggs and chop with a hand chopper for country style chopped liver. Or put into a food processor and purée for elegant pâté.

6.      Remove to a bowl or crock. Cover tightly and refrigerate overnight.

7.      Set an open leaf of iceberg lettuce on individual plates. Scoop out rounds of the liver to place in the center of each.  Cover with a thin slice of onion and decorate with parsley. Pass sliced Challah bread for all to enjoy.

ROAST CORNISH HEN

Yield: 6 servings one-half hen each

3 Cornish hens

Salt and pepper

1-2 cloves garlic, minced

½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1-2 sprigs rosemary, cut into 6 pieces

1 onion, chopped fine

2 ribs celery, chopped fine

½ cup white wine

2 tablespoons rendered chicken fat

½ cup chicken broth

1.                  Preheat oven to 400°F.

2.                  Slit the hens along the backbone. Slice through the breast from neck to tail. Slice along one side of the backbone. Slice along the other side and remove the bone to discard. Cut off the tails. Wash under cold water and remove any extra fat. Dry on paper toweling.

3.                  Slide a small, sharp knife under the tiny breast bones and, without cutting into the meat, remove them.

4.                  Sprinkle the hens well with salt and pepper.  Squeeze lemon juice over both sides. Mince the garlic and rub it well into the hens on both sides.

5.                  Cover the bottom of a shallow baking pan with the onion and celery. Add the wine to the pan. Place a half a hen over, skin side up. Tuck a sprig of rosemary under each half. Brush with chicken fat.

6.                  Roast, uncovered, ten minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F. Roast another 25-30 minutes, or until the juices run clear or a meat thermometer inserted into the middle of the thigh registers 180°F.

7.                  Strain the gravy from the baking pan into a saucepan. Stir in the chicken broth. Bring to a boil and pour over the hens to serve.

      

KASHA WITH BOWTIE FARFALLA

Yield: 6 servings

1 small purple onion, chopped fine by hand, not minced in food processor

1 rib celery, chopped fine by hand

Optional: 1 clove garlic, minced

Optional: A handful of chopped mushrooms of your choice

1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil (Dare I say chicken fat again?)
1 cup Wolff’s® kasha
2 or more cups boiling chicken stock or water seasoned with salt and pepper

½ teaspoon ground thyme or 1 teaspoon minced leaves

Optional: 6 ounces bowtie pasta or thin penne

Salt and pepper to taste

1.      In a deep skillet, sauté the onion, celery, garlic and mushrooms in oil over medium heat until soft but not colored.

2.      Add the kasha and cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes until the grains are toasted and separate from each other. Add the seasoned boiling stock or water. Stir, cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook 30 minutes or longer, checking to add more liquid if needed. The Kasha is done when it has become soft. It is important to keep it moist.

3.      For the Pasta: Bring a pot of water to a full boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions. When the pasta is done, drain off the water. Combine the kasha and pasta and toss well. Taste to add salt and pepper.

HONEY GLAZED CARROTS

Yield: 6 servings

2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces

Salt to sprinkle

4 tablespoons unfiltered honey (¼ cup)

1 teaspoon RealLemon® juice

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

8 ounces Mott’s® Apple Juice (small bottle)

1.                  Boil the carrots in water to cover until half done and still very firm. Drain.

2.                  Stir the lemon juice into the honey in a glass measuring cup. Stir in the sugar and apple juice until well combined.

3.                  Pour over the carrots and cook, uncovered, over medium heat until the mixture has reduced to a glaze. Stir often, being careful not to break or mash the carrots. Keep warm until ready to serve.

Tune in Comcast channel 22 & BrightHouse 199 to watch host, Valerie Hart, interview chefs in their kitchens "The Back of the House", or watch it live on your computer at www.lakefronttv.com. Follow her food page on Wednesdays in The Daily Commercial.

PORTOBELLO/PORTABELLA MUSHROOM FACTS

Monterey Mushrooms, located on eighty acres on Sadler Road just off Hwy 441 in Zellwood, is the country’s largest and only national marketer of fresh mushrooms. Monterey is vertically integrated and able to control all aspects of mushroom production from seed to customer/consumer. An international, multi-facility company, with 10 mushroom growing farms strategically located throughout North America, Monterey’s mushrooms are literally “locally grown” nationwide. This means that Monterey is uniquely positioned to deliver the best, most innovative mushroom products possible to consumers throughout the country. Their claim to fame, however, is the Portabello Mushroom that was developed approximately 20 years ago at their California facility. This “beefy” overgrown brown baby bella ( proper name, 'Crimini',   named for the Crimini family in Italy ) is the answer to a vegetarian’s prayer. Just one portobello will provide close to 400 IU of vitamin D per serving. And, one does not have to worry about scrubbing anything that arrives from this farm. Everyone who enters the doors of the farm, from the truck drivers to the security guards, must wear hair nets and gloves. The workers who sort and pack the mushrooms in the refrigerated growing rooms also wear face masks. The result is that the finished product is not exposed to any elements that might subject it to contamination.  It is possible to drive through the gates into the facility to take home a bag right from the farm. And, for the home farmer or gardener, compost is also available at a minimal cost.  Nothing is wasted in this environmentally friendly facility, including their dedication to their own re-cycled water.

            The three mushrooms grown at Monterey include White, Baby Bella, and Portobello, also labeled 'Portabella'.The difference in spelling depends on whether one considers them masculine or feminine. Italian is a Romance language. Romance language words have gender. The large portobello mushroom is considered masculine whereas the smaller, baby bella, takes on the feminine gender.  

Care and handling tips from Monterey:

·         Purchase mushrooms that are firm with a fresh smooth appearance.

·         The surface should be plump and dry, but not drie-out looking.

·         A closed veil under the cap indicates delicate flavor, while an open veil and exposed gills will have a richer flavor.

Storing tips from Monterey:

·         Store in their original package or in a porous paper bag for longer shelf life. Some mushrooms will keep up to one week in the refrigerator. Baby bellas and portabellas have a longer shelf life than the white.

·        Do not freeze raw mushrooms. They will lose texture and flavor due to their high water content. Sautéed mushrooms can be frozen up to 1 month.

Cleaning tips from Monterey:

·         Brush off any peat moss with your fingers or a damp paper towel, or quickly rinse under cool water. Pat dry with paper toweling.

·         Never soak a mushroom in water because they absorb moisture.

·         If the stem is tough, remove it. Trim and chop fine or pulverize for gravy or sauce.

·         Portobellos: The gills may be removed because they store a large amount of water. When they are very fresh, the gills will be light brown. The longer they are stored, the darker the gills. Whereas the gills provide a stronger flavor, they also turn sauces dark and watery. Remove them carefully with the point of a small spoon.

Cooking techniques from Monterey:

 To Roast: Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss whole or sliced mushrooms lightly with fresh lemon juice and olive oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Set on a baking sheet in a single layer and bake approximately 20 minutes, or until browned. (Optional: Add crushed garlic when tossing)

To Microwaave: Place 8 ounces thickly sliced mushrooms in a microwaveable bowl. (No butter or oil needed. Add desired seasonings, such as salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion powder) Cover and cook on high 2-3 minutes, stirring once in-between. For portobellos, cover and cook in the microwave 6 minutes and blot away excess liquid to serve.

Tune in channel 22 Comcast or BrightHouse 199 to watch host, Valerie Hart, interview chefs in their kitchens "The Back of the House", or watch it live on your computer at www.lakefronttv.com. Follow her food page on Wednesdays in The Daily Commercial.